” Tau Foo Far ” from Nam Foong Coffee Shop 南风茶室之豆腐花 – A taste from the past
Bush Radio Marble Table Wooden Chairs
Besides being a home to my family, 188 Hugh Low Street was also once a coffee shop.
In 1945, an English man who was working and staying in Batu Gajah, retired and planned to return to England for good. He has a collection of marble tables and wooden chairs in his rented house. Unable to bring them along, he gave them away to the villagers nearby.
Dad got some tables and chairs and hired a small lorry to transport them to his newly rented shop in Ipoh. He bought a Bush Radio from a second hand dealer a few years later. Two hanging fans and fluorescent lamps were added to complete the ‘old world charm’ look. And voila, Nam Foong Coffee Shop “南风茶室” was born!
Nam Foong is famous for its tau foo far, served with essence of almond in a small porcelain bowl. They are served either warm or chilled. It was sold at 5 cents a bowl in the 40s and 30 cents during the 60s.
It was hard work to make tau foo far. First, soya beans were soaked before being placed in between 2 round stone slabs to grind them. It is then cooked in a big wok using slow fire. Once it is boiled, it is filtered and poured into wooden tubs. Roasted lime stone powder is added to give it the right texture. Finally, they were scooped into hundreds of porcelain bowls.
Dad could take the easy way out by cooking gula Melaka or rock sugar to go with tau foo far, like what you are getting nowadays. But he will have none of this. To him, tau foo far is best eaten with essence of almond and nothing can convince him to think otherwise!
To produce the aromatic and sweet essence of almond call for skill. They were steamed and pounded to extract the essence which if done incorrectly, will give a bitter taste instead.
In those days, everything was done by hands. No machine is use, unlike now. The work was done by my parents and paternal grandma from night till dawn when everyone was sound asleep.
And do you know that the outcome is not the same every day? Dad was very strict with the end result. He will not settle for anything less. If he was satisfied with the texture, he will sell them. Otherwise, he would just pour them away and for that day, he will sell the normal stuff like coffee or toasted bread only.
The best soya beans came from Indonesia and Vietnam. Different batch of beans from the same source yield different results. The secret lay in choosing the right beans and using the right amount of each ingredient. It was a skill he learned from paternal grandpa who is very skillful in making soya bean products.
Soon words spread around about the smooth and aromatic tau foo far . Before long, it sold very well and on a good day, almost 200 bowls were sold. Patrons would park their cars near the shop to have a taste of this delicious dessert because back then, Dad would not allow take away in plastic bags. He insisted the tau foo far to be served in porcelain bowls to bring out the best in taste, aroma and texture.
A myriad of customers came in for this dessert. My elder brother’s headmaster, who is a Christian brother at Sam Tet School, occasionally cycled over for a few bowls in the hot afternoon. He came in his white robes and all!
Then there is the old blind masseur who roamed the town offering his service. When he called it a night, he would drop in for a bowl or two. Whenever I saw him coming, I would quickly ran and squatted under tables or hid behind doors because the sight of him wearing big dark glasses with bells in his hands simply petrified me. I was about 5 or 6 then.
The policemen from the police station opposite would come for the tau foo far too. Some of them would ask Dad, “Eh, towkay, apa benda ini hah…….sungguh sedap?”
Dad would reply, “ Ini tau foo far !”
“Apa….oh….tau foo farrrrrrrrr…..” and everyone would laugh.
Business was stable and the family could make a decent living.
However, some 25 years later, one day, Dad received a notice from the Ipoh municipality which changed our lives completely……
Note: The photos above showed a marble table, some wooden chairs and the old radio from Nam Foong Coffee Shop. Except for the radio which was broken down, the rest are still in use till today. During its prime, we can listen to stations all over the world, just imagine that!
It sound tasty.
I’m a Tau foo far lover.
Tau Foo Far so good in taste ?
Real ?
If yes,do you still have the skill making it ?
Such history must not be lost,because even small things of everday life,will help future generations(those who are interested)understand “Why,Who,Where,When and How”.Are you related to Ken?
Hi KL boy
My dad’s tau foo far is indeed very tasty. I still remember eating them when I was a child.It is very light,smooth and aromatic – just like how real tau foo far should be like. It is out of this world. But this is so because dad used the traditional way and it was all hand made. I think nobody use this method anymore.
Today’s tau foo far is very different,esp in texture. I found them too hard and lumpy.Very few people got it right.
Althought the family secret is still with us,but my family rarely make it. It is too labourous.Moreover,we lost some of the tools used.
And Jim, no,Ken and I are not related.I presumed he came from Ipoh too and loved the place just like I do.
Is the old radio still repairable ?
How old this radio ?
I think it’s considered an antique.
My family also used to have one of this , half the size of it, but unfortunately we have thrown it away when we move into a new house.
For my opinion,I think you should keep it for your next generations, don’t throw or sell it.
Riversidegrass,this classical English beauty is 62 years old,born in 1948.It was bought at RM421 then,quite a princely sum!It is a Bush Radio,made in England and is a collector item.
Yes,actually it is still repairable but it had to be done in England only.The manufacturer still restore vintage radios but I guess it will cost a bomb! They have a fan’s club website on the net.
In it’s heyday,we can actually tune in to places as far as Russia,USA,South Africa and Egypt.
My dad gave it to my young son to keep as rememberance.
Hi Ipohgal! your article made my mouth water – i’m a HUGE fan of tau foo far
i do wonder if the tau foo far sellers of today know about the traditional method? if like in the case of your dad, the famliy-recipe would be passed down….
thanks for sharing this with us!
Hi Felicia,lol!
Dad’s method is history.It is simply not viable anymore.Once,I told a tau foo far seller near my house about dad’s recipe and she was like “huh?”.I gave up.
She told me about the RM30,000 machine from Germany that could do everything for her and she mass produces for other sellers.
But of course she used very low grade beans and replaced the lime stone powder with gelatin.And you can’t find essence of the almond anymore.
ipohgal,I meant no offence,only that Ken is,in reality,a talking History Book and you have the knack of honesty.I can’t think of better attributes to preserve Heritage
jim, thanks for the compliments. I am by no means a walking and talking compendium of Ipoh’s history but just someone who was born and bred in this serene, midsize Malaysian city. After completing my education, I was employed in a leading film distribution company for some years and apart from Ipoh, I was also briefly based in Penang, KL, Melaka and Kuantan. In the mid 80′s, I left Ipoh for good and has settled down in the US ever since. In the last 25 years, I have visited many countries, including your corner of the world but Ipoh is still tugging at my heart strings. Needless to say, I do cherish the hope of spending more time in city of my birth after my retirement in the distant future. You are absolutely right about Ipohgal’s knack for honesty. It is like a breath of fresh air and those eloquent recollections of her childhood memories ring many bells in my stuporous mind. Like her, I grew up in the New Town area and her articles acted as the catalyst that prompted me to reminisce about my own formative years in Ipoh. Kudos to this site for providing me with this endless stream of nostalgia. I look forward to diving into it because this indulgence is just the right antidote to relieve the stress that comes with living in the fast lanes of a big American city.
Hi Jim and Ken
I felt humbled by your compliments.My dad,if he is still around,is 90. He was born in Perak and spent his entire life in that state.
As his youngest daughter,I always sat next to him and listened as he articulates about the family story.What I blogged here is what I heard,nothing more and nothing less.Actually what I am doing now is to compile them. My problem is that I do not have photos for some events which happened so long ago and at that time we do not have a camera.
Guess I have to make do with whatever material I have.Please bear with me on this.
tell your story as it was, Ipohgal……we love hearing from you.
just wondering: have you by any chance tried making tau foo far using your dad’s ‘secret’ recipe?
Ken,ipohgal,we are,all three of us,blessed or cursed,whichever way you look at it.With a good memory,because,even as children,we watched and took everything in.It is a gift because,my guess is,both of you can remember things down to the most intimate detail,of events long ago(Correct me if I’m wrong,though I doubt I am) it is sometimes a blight because somethings we don’t wish to remember and can’t forget.I know we are not alone as this site proves
Thanks Felicia.
Some years back,my eldest sister actually sat down with dad and jotted every step of the family secret recipe in detail.
However,we can’t put it into action because we lack the proper tools and certain ingredients.The tools which my dad once used were broken down due to wear and tear after so many decades of heavy usage.For example,the stone grinder.It was specially ordered and made in China for this purpose.We have tried using the modern blender but the result is not as good.
I can still see in my mind’s eyes how my parents pulled the handle of the stone grinder round and round in a clockwise direction for many hours just to grind the beans into very very fine paste.They were soaked with sweats from just doing this.
Another setback is the agent used to firm up the soya juice,the lime stone powder.Yes,they are actually sticks of lime stones,roasted under the fire and then pounded into very fine powder.In those days,Dad can easily get them in medical halls but now nobody ever heard of this stuff.We tried using gelatin powder without much success.
Even some of my relatives who are bean curd makers in Gopeng and Batu Gajah tried without success too. Maybe dad is the last person to make such tau foo far.
For consolation,however, we came out with very delicious soya milk and that is the closest we can get! Hahahahahaha.
And to Jim,inheriting an eye for details and sharp memory from dad is a blessing,I guess!
wow! then if we ever meet up (in the future! God willing), you could bring some of that home-made soya milk….hahhahaa….
Great memories ipohgal.
I was based in Singapore from 1961 to 1963 and we came across the causeway to Malaya on many occasions, either for a night out on the town or to play rugby. Sadly I do not remember tasting Tau Foo Fah in those days and probably never did even though we came to Ipoh on one rugby tour in 1962.
I also returned to the new Malaysia several times in the 70s and 80s, but again missed out on this delicacy, probably paying more attention to Tiger beer than anything else.
Since I came to live permanently in Ipoh in 1999 I have tried the local recipe as it is today and to my inexperienced palate it seemed fine. But now I know different and regret that the chance to savour REAL Tau Foo Fah appears to have gone for ever – unless someone can find the right ingredients for ipohgal. Incidentally, by the description, I think we have the grinder!
ika,did you play rugby? you may know an old mate of mine David Cato,sadly no longer with us,he would be around that time.Paying more attention to Tiger Beer is also an honourable passtime
Hi Ika,it is a real shame that you miss out on this treat! Nam Foong Coffee Shop started in 1945 and closed up in 1971. 26 years of tasty tau foo far for Ipoh folks to devour. So, I can count myself lucky for having tasted this gem to my heart’s content!
Jim, the name David Cato certainly rings a bell in my head but I think the Tiger beer must have dulled the memory for I cannot remember where I came across him.
What a good story. Thankfully there are still many tau foo far stalls all around Ipoh, though I am sure …
NONE that can measure up to your dad’s, right?
Hi J2Kfm, I am so happy to finally hear from you because I used to go to your food blog whenever I missed Ipoh food!
I think you are right.None,so far,can come close to my Dad’s tau foo far. I am not bragging but being honest about it. It should not be a surprise, considering that only the best ingredients were used and made in the traditional way.
If you ask me, I would say that tau foo far nowadays are mass and instant products. It will not leave a lingering impression……
I think not only tau foo far’s standard has dropped. Many famous food too. Somehow,the previous generations always gave us better and more authentic taste than the ones who took over now.Don’t you agreed?
ika,
I’m betting you came across David Cato in the FMS Bar,the Boundah introduced me to it,I used to be an innocent at large(Well,maybe)
“Nam Foong is famous for its tau foo far, served with essence of almond in a small porcelain bowl. They are served either warm or chilled. It was sold at 5 cents a bowl in…..”
It was just 5 cents a bowl of taufoofar!!!!! So cheap compare to today’s price.
Huh…! What a huge differences indeed!
Ipohgal,
From your article,understand that your father was a person who took “Quality Control“ seriously type of merchant in term of outcomes of the product.Sadly to say, as you can see nowadays,They only jnow how to increase selling price without seriously care about qualty and buyers feeling. most of the merchants just looking seriously on retail business in term of margin only, they just only worried about the installment of the car, the house, and luxury things and so on.
Their foolishness act and unawareness of the QC and “happily” selling price actually indirectly affects them too.
“….Business was stable and the family could make a decent living.
However, some 25 years later, one day, Dad received a notice from the Ipoh municipality which changed our lives completely…… ”
Should I say this ?!
“ChugChung ZigZig, ChungSui HardSit”
Hi Song, how our dollar has shrunk! To think that way back, a bowl of tau foo far only costed 5 cents and now it was around RM1.80 to RM2 for a bowl. Not only it costed more but the quality has gone to the dogs.
Recently, I went for some with my children at a famous dessert house in Times Square. They charged RM2 a bowl and my kids said, “What is this stuff, how come so tasteless and bland?” See, even kids can give that kind of reactions although they have never tasted their grandfather’s famous tau foo fah.
My dad belonged to the breed of traders who took great pride in the quality of his products. He cared about his reputation because it was a family secret passed down by my grandpa who learnt it from a ‘sifu’ or master back in his village in Guangdong. He wanted his customers to feel satisfied and keep coming back.
Definately not the “Goh Chor Hoi Hai Sun Sin” type of traders you can find everywhere nowadays. These traders don’t give a damn how you feel as long as they managed to make enough profits to pay their instalments, just liked you said.
And the phase “Chung Chung Zig Zig, Chung Sui Hard Sit” rang a bell. My mom always used this to grumble my dad when he refused to increase the price of sharpening a pair of scissors. It simply means “Honesty will led to poverty.”
So, should we say, ” Ng Chung Zig, Chung Sui Fatt Tatt?” which means “Dishonesty will led to prosperity” to describe today’s traders? hahahahahaha.
Ipohgal, in which year did Nam Foong Coffee shop wind up its business? I must admit I have passed the junction a thousand times, but I didn’t notice (pardon me) the shop.
Ipohgal, I found the answer, 1971. How sad, such rich history and such famous tau foo far. It is my loss I didn’t get to taste it. I lived in Buntong at that time and never got to come to town for food. During my secondary school days, supper in Ipoh would be ‘tong sui’ at Clare St. It was only ten cents for a bowl of ‘hong tau sui’. Well within my budget.
To all of you who are pining for the tau foo far, grieve not, as the tau foo far in Ipoh is still the best and is still available elsewhere. However, the cost will not be 10 sen as mentioned by PT. It is more likely RM1 if not more. However, for those who still have not tasted or still yearn for the taste of custard from Tian Chuan Coffee Shop, go there soon as you may not have them after 30.06.11.
SY, have you tasted the tau foo far at Osborne St., the little stall occupying the back portion of a shop-house? It’s good @ 80 cents a bowl.
PT
Yes. The contents are getting less than before. They are still very good
Hi PT,
Thanks for your interest in the tau foo fah from Nam Foong Coffee Shop. It was so long ago. Not many people in Ipoh know about this or remember of it’s existence. I have just met two very old men in Ipoh, in their eighties, who had tasted my dad’s delicacy and still remembered the taste. They still missed the stuff!
My only surviving aunt, in her eighties too, used to help dad make tau foo fah, still remembers all the ingredients and steps in detail. She too, took great pride and delight in revealing the secret behind this famous dessert. Thanks to her, my family recipe is still intact although we do not make it anymore.
Yes, Clare Street used to be known as ‘tong sui’ street. I still remember the stalls selling ‘tong sui’, kuih and fried noodles by the roadside at night. It was located directly opposite the former Parit Enterprise Express Bus. A walking distance from the former Foh San too.
The caramel egg custard at Thean Chun is heavenly. Just had many bowls last week.
Hello ! You have great pictures there ! yes, sending the radio for repair will definitely cost a bomb cuz I did mine in UK too, by a vintage radio repair and it cost me nearly a thousand on repairs and postage and purchase
Im using a Bush radio too, and this one uses valve instead of transistors ! 
spare parts are rare now.
Hi Justin,
Getting my Bush radio fixed in England is just a wishful thinking, unless I hit the jackpot but I don’t buy lottery, so it will just remained a wishful thinking!
Ipohgal, I have been intently reading your essays on family and Ipoh History. I am so impressed. Some years ago, I tried to talk to my Dad and my oldest Aunt regarding my family history. I wrote stuff down but everything was so disconnected, I gave up. Now you have inspired me to try again but my Dad is gone and so is my aunt. However I still have 2 uncles left so I’ll have to start there.
As for the Tau Fu far, I am going to disagree with you LOL. My dad made the best Tau Fu Far. We had a hawker store in Merdeka Gardens in the 70s till the early 90s. As far as I can remember, it was very popular and we sell out early most nights and Dad always have extra ready at home and very soon a fresh batch will be served.
I have to agree with you that these days the Tau Fu far is not the same. Like your Dad, my dad did it the traditional way. The only difference is he actually bought a electric crusher (don’t really know what to call it) to grind the Soy Beans.
Ipoh produces the best Bean Curd (tau Fu) and bean sprouts (Hga Choy). My Dad said that is because of the pure water we have in Ipoh. I do agree with him that Ipoh’s water is fantastic.
Anyway, i am continuing to enjoy reading your essays. Please keep it coming.
Hi ipohgal,
I have never try tau foo far with almond essence before. I used to go to my classmate father’s sundry shop next door, but in those days we cannot afford to eat in a coffee shop. My auntie used to comment using a mortar to pound chillies or tau cheong is different from using a electric mixer, the texture and the taste is totally not the same. For convenient sake, we too never bother and we chose the easier way.During any festive season,I still remembered my father,sitting on a wooden stool pounding and pounding to make the best chillies belachan.
Hi Yoke Leong,
Thank you for your comment on this article. It is interesting to hear from a reader whose father also used to make tau foo fah. I believed like me, you grew up eating a lot of tau foo fah and still never had enough of it!
With my dad and your dad around during those days, Ipoh’s folks could savour the best tau foo fah made in the traditional way. However, Ipoh’s folks are not so lucky anymore with my dad and yours gone to heaven.
You can read more of my stories at http://188hughlowstreet.wordpress.com
Hi Sogantan,
Yes, eating tau foo fah with almond essence is getting rare these days. Now we have gula melaka or white sugar with ginger. If you like the smell and taste of almond like I do, then just imagine a bowl of smooth tau foo fah with the aroma of almond and that is how it is back then, hahaha!
An electric mixer or blender is certainly more convenient but the texture and taste is far different from those done with the stone mortar. In other words, no short cut to good authentic taste.
Hi ipohgal,
i am trying to find the best recipe to make soya milk, can you share your recipe with us? thks.
Hi Chan,
Making soya milk is very straight forward – soak the soya beans with clear water until tender, blend them in the blender, squeeze out the juice and bring the soya milk to boil using medium or low heat until you see small bubbles. Add in sugar syrup to suit your taste.
The Tau Foo Far at Nam Foong was truly excellent.
At that time in Ipoh there were also Tau Foo Far vendors who would hawk their wares in the evenings. They used carts (modified tricycles) with barrels mounted on them. For a few cents you could get your fill of dessert, warm or cold. One such vendor served the Canning Gardens and Ashby Road area. Weary and wizened, he seemed a hundred years old. He made his own stuff and it was very good, too.
Hi Cervantes,
I still hold to the belief that the tau foo far my dad made at Nam Foong is the best…I can still remember it’s taste and texture, fantastic!